Executioner's Rock

On Sunday morning, our friend Dan (of Dan, Meredith, Sophia and Luca with whom we went to Mbulzuni Game Reserve a few weekends ago) called and asked if we were awake (for people with children 8:00am on a Sunday morning is ‘late’) and if we wanted to go hiking. Even though we were still in bed, we of course lied and said that we weren’t and agreed to pick-up Dan in half an hour. Coincidentally, we were going back to Milwane Game Reserve to climb, ‘Executioner’s Rock.’ Apparently, back in the day, criminals who were sentenced to death were executed by being pushed off of this particular rock. All morbidity aside, it was a spectacular hike which included ladders and bridges, a couple of new animal sightings, caves, 360 degree views, and microscopic red ticks (okay, those weren’t as spectacular…incubation period for tick fever is 7-14 days, so we’ll keep you posted). Nonetheless, it was another great day in Swaziland!

Doug and Dan deciding our route
The ‘botanical garden’ (not exactly the Garden of Eden)

The ladder leading into the cave
The cave
Cave drawing (of a DLT)

View looking out from the cave
Bridge
Dan at the top
Doug at the top
Happy, married couple considering pushing the other over ‘Executioner’s Rock’ (clearly, I’m at a disadvantage in both size and position)
Valley views
Klipspringer
Something ‘helmeted bird'

Mountain Biking in Milwane

After a lazy Saturday morning including 3 hours spent reading in bed (Doug has been reading, ’28 Stories of AIDS in Africa’ and I’ve been reading, ‘Methland’) and an indulgent breakfast burrito (enabled by the discovery of $9 tortillas and tobasco at the ‘fancy’ grocery store), Doug and I rallied ourselves and our gear and headed into the Enzulwini Valley. About 30 minutes from our place is one of the three game reserves operated by the King. Via some of the other more adventurous expats in town and our faithful Lonely Planet, we knew that the Milwane Game Reserve offered mountain biking, so we spent Saturday afternoon checking it out. Because it is a Game Reserve with ‘game drives’ there are numerous jeep trails throughout the park – these make for easy and relaxing ‘mountain biking’ as the trails are wide and the path ahead is obvious (it’s pretty much a dirt road). I felt a little bit like an ‘old lady’ with my helmet on as rode out of camp because there didn’t seem to be much danger awaiting us on the jeep trails (this is not foreshadowing – we did not encounter any danger). With Doug rattling on about traumatic brain injuries and helmets I felt momentarily annoyed at having married a doctor, but was quickly appeased by the herd of zebra we encountered just outside of camp.

Close-up We rented the bikes for 2 hours and with Doug along, you know we were sure to make it to every corner of the park in our allotted time. It was a fantastic afternoon…outdoors, in the middle of nowhere, on a mountain bike safari!
Although Doug usually consults maps with zeal, the Milwane map was quickly disregarded because single trek trails became visible from the jeep trails but were not included on the map. We explored the real ‘mountain biking’ that Milwane offered and later learned that there are 65 kilometers of single trek trails in the reserve (Doug nearly passed out in euphoria with this news).

Single trek trails
Sometimes, you just had to get off and carry your bike
We rode around to the hippo pond, saw some baby warthogs, lots of random heards of DLT’s (deer-like-things) and just as we were driving out of the park, we saw the daddy of all crocodiles sunning himself on the side of the road.
On our way out, we purchased a couple’s ‘Wild Card’ which permits entry into all national parks in Southern Africa for free for a year, and Doug restarted a previous conversation about buying a mountain bike – so, I am sure we’ll be back to Milwane, soon!

Traffic Jam

Every now and then, there is a photo that doesn't need a story...here we are trying to get onto the on-ramp to get on the highway on Sunday!

Sibebe Rock

On Sunday morning, Doug and I ventured 10 km down our road and into Pine Valley to climb the famous, Sibebe Rock. It is the largest exposed granite dome in the world – bigger than Half Dome in Yosemite National Park in California and bigger than Uluru (Ayer’s) Rock in Australia. Sibebe is estimated to be more than 3 billion years old and is quite a source of pride for Swaziland (so much so that the national beer is also called, Sibebe). It was a 3 ½ hour hike, round trip, and truly remarkable as we were the only people on the trail! The views of the Manzini region, our very own Pine Valley, and the Lubombo mountains were breathtaking.

At the base of the mountain as you begin the hike; there are a few more traditional homesteads and farms There are also some angry looking plants along the way
And a few caves formed by large boulders which have toppled down the mountain
After we ascended the first ridge, we walked along the saddle which was like a wheat field
And finally, at the top of Sibebe Rock (Doug is still looking at the map, as he always does, to make double and triple sure that we haven’t missed anything along the way…). The second shot is a picture from the side of Sibebe – it was impossible to capture the immense dome in a single frame, so you will just have to come and see it for yourself!
180 degrees of valley views

Photo Scavenger Hunt

Each year, when the new PAC doctors arrive in Mbabane, it has become a tradition to have a photo ‘scavenger hunt’ through which the new doctors get to know the other clinic employees and have the opportunity to learn a little bit about Swazi culture and history, (and let’s face it) a little bit about the random things one might expect to see around town. Doug was the team leader for a completely Swazi team and I was grouped with one of the Spanish doctors (Peluca – owner of the infamous car referenced in numerous other blog entries) and two Swazis from the clinic – Lwazi, the social worker, and Ngicela, one of the laboratory technicians. While I am happy to report that my team beat out the other three teams for first place (I won a nice Swazi mug), Doug was using our camera for his team’s photo hunt and therefore is featured in all of the pictures below. The scavenger hunt began at 2:00pm and each team had 3 hours to capture as many of the items on the list as possible. The only rule was that at least one photo must be taken from each category, including: commerce, cuisine, culture, transportation, recreation, nature, and places. Additionally, there was a 10 point bonus if each member of the team was captured in the photograph (which meant that you had successfully negotiated with a local Swazi to take your team’s picture – not as easy as you might think). Here are some of the items captured by Doug’s team!

In centerfield at Somholo National Football Stadium

Herding cattle Inside a traditional ‘beehive’ Swazi home
Drinking the local ‘home brew’
In the back of a pick-up truck (as is the preferred transport for many Swazis)
Putting out a roadside fire (seriously, there are lots of these friendly, little brushfires)
With a statue of King Sobhuza II And, finally…chasing a monkey…Doug’s team was the only team to capture this shot and Doug actually won, ‘best photo’ for his efforts (he won a mini clay pot that I promptly snatched-up for myself...)

Hlane Game Drive

[Pictured Above: 'Bush Animal...' Sometimes, on safari, you are so intent on seeing animals that you think you see them, even when you don't - like this bush animal!]

On Saturday afternoon, while staying in Mbulzuni, we reserved a ‘game drive’ at the neighboring game park called, Hlane Game Reserve. Meredith, Melissa, Matt, Doug and I set-off from our place about 1:15pm for our 2:00pm ‘drive.’ Our fearless safari guide was named, Simbusiso and he did not disappoint in telling stories, explaining animal habits or tracking the animals in the park. I’ll let the rest of this entry be told in pictures…

Simbusiso
Everyone in the Land Rover, ready-to-go [Matt, Melissa and Meredith]!
I named this one, ‘Saturday Afternoon Stroll’ because this mother and baby rhino were just walking down the lane.

More rhinos – they were not shy!
Warthogs
Rhinos and warthogs

ElephantsKudu